Thursday 14 May 2015

Style and the present day

In our current age of fashion, underdressing and strangulation by clothing is seen as fashionable. Recently, one blogger who I read regularly reposted an older article of his. This article explained how suits are now a dying breed and how jeans or mixed seperates are flooding in by the masses. Now, I often wear separates and denim also, but casually. The problem of the suit being metaphorically desecrated is that jeans and trousers are taking the place of them. This article will explain why suits are timeless and why trends shouldn't be followed in place of them.

I wear denim, yes, I admit it. My denim of choice is the Levi's 501 CT in cream or raw selvedge, they are much more deep and elegant that way. CT stands for custom taper and have a carrot fit of sorts, they are tailored on the thighs and more snug on the leg as they lower. Raw denim or selvedge denim as it is rightly called, is the ultimate form of denim. It is unrefined and raw dyed from the most natural fibres, they gain an aged patina with time and never look cheap or exhausted like many abominations on people today.

Look above at the picture, this is a pair of deep indigo Levi's 501 CT's and the fit is perfect, they slim his legs but do not err on the sight of tight, they are more tailored and this is really the only form of true tailored denim. The high waisting and low back pockets give a vibe of practicality in a casual sense, having utilitarian pockets that look relaxed with more fitted legs and a nipped waist.


I have no war on denim as it is a great alternative to chinos or trousers for those who like them for certain casual situations, but in our modern day of extremes, denim is being destroyed. The perpetrator of this are the fashionable skinny, spray on and "jegging" styles. Fashion use these styles to boost their popularity in the youth of today, to great success.... But does that make this look good, look below.



These jeans on the right are seen as trending and fashionable but that does not make them stylish, they simply show how androgynous someone's legs are and that their girlfriend has more breadth than them. These jeans have been around since the early 80's, but that does not make them stylish. They are not timeless and they do not offer comfortability. I have seen boys and girls in physical discomfort from these types of jeans, but they wear them because they think they look good.  They might to you younger readers, but as you progress in maturity and style you will soon realise that these are not flattering. Look at this gentleman's feet, don't they look disproportionately large in contrast to the minuscule ankles and calves he has? Something slightly fitted and not scuba style would have given him a greater shape and silhouette. 

Athletic builds and more stocky legs have muscle to actually show off, but they will certainly look like a member of the Royal ballet, it's nice to know one has such a physique but would we all walk around in vests to show off last night's expedition to the bench press.? I exercise, but I do not flaunt any part of my physique through clothing, it whispers not just a lack of style panache but also overcompensation. Boys and girls, do you want to look like a lollipop? 

Chinos are a perfect wardrobe staple, they offer versatility and a timeless look of smart-casual. There is a beauty to wearing chinos, they show that you are young and that you also care about how you dress, but they also show maturity, elegance and if cut right they can make thinner or more rotund men look quite athletic if need be. I wear chinos whenever I am either at home or visiting friends in a purely casual situation.

For gentlemen who are now rethinking their jeans and the possibility of trouser or chinos, I suggest a 
novice starts with summer or spring cotton chinos. If you wish to find a starting pair, try beige, 
cream, tobacco or light blue chinos from Fred Perry's tailored fits or Suitsupply who offer amazing selections on chinos, trousers and tailored separates of all sorts. Chinos can look great with a light 
chambray or oxford cotton shirt, or a polo shirt and sometimes a shirt and tie if paired well but not
formally.

I suggest tailored fit trousers from suitsupply, the material is not only all natural and handmade in Italy, but the fit is one of the most flattering for anyone. The little details like the side adjusters and button hip pocket add further elegance and beauty to them that can't be achieved with fashion jeans or spray on jeans. These trousers were a design made to make the wearer feel comfortable, godly and secure in how they look. These can easily be smart and smart-casual, but they cannot be used for the most casual of situations, that is where the aforementioned cotton chino comes in.

Dark pastel green chinos from Suitsupply are a more relaxed but snug fit that will hug but not constrict one's legs from movement, they are a brilliant summer colour that is recently becoming much more popular too so they are a go-to choice for those looking for a summer pair. These can be dressed down with loafers or some form of slip-ons, whilst some brogues or Oxfords would make them look dapper and audaciously stylish with their louder colour. I find statement chinos the most interesting as they offer much more room to experiment with, as they are already so far out there.


Observe the same chinos as previously shown, but in a different colour. Chinos offer a tailored, slim leg that will not make them look fragile. I promise you that chinos are a staple that you would never look back from. They, and fitted jeans, last better and look better than the fashion jeans that will soon be shunned out by the so called trend setters


Finally, tailored trousers from a suit are also used in mix-and-match scenarios alongside chinos and casual trousers. For those looking for a pair, I suggest dark charcoal trousers from suitsupply with the fly front with an off centre button system, featuring no belt loops. When a pair of trousers has no belt loops, they were made to be worn as a tailored garment or with braces, keeping the consistent line of fabric without the break of any belt. Personally, I prefer trousers with no belt loops on my suits and only one suit of mine has belt loops. These can obviously be business appropriate if paired with a matching jacket, shirt and tie with possibly a pocket square if you feel that ready. They can also be dressed down with a turtleneck that fits snug or a casual shirt and jumper. 


I hope this article has provided you with a thorough if not controversial insight to how separates and suits shouldn't fall into the clutches of fashion trends. The views I shared personally are mine which I am conveying with the intention of opening your eyes to a larger world of casual.  I understand that one may enjoy skin tight jeans, and by all means wear them, but how long will it be before you waste more money on something you will only wear for so long? You may spend £120 on designer skinny jeans, and grow out or stop wearing them in 6 months due to trend change. If I was to spend £120 on tailored chinos like my tobacco Fred Perry cuffed chinos, I would wear them until either they wore out or I grew out, which would be years if cared for properly. Remember, trends are not everything so do not let them consume your natural figure and self respect. Stay strong to stay stylish, 
thank you for reading.