The "classic" fit dress shirt, a faux pas.

To start off, let me say that I am lean with an athletic build and a 15.5 inch collar, so my shirts that fit me are my pride and joy because fit was once a large problem for me. Recently, I have been seeing men of all professions wearing shirts that resemble Victorian bell dresses, they are what these brands call "classic" fits.

The classic fit is aimed at the man of breadth and "traditional" proportions, but this results in a box cut and gaping collar that can crease from tie pressure. When I was in Bicester village last year, I was shopping for shirts at Gieves and Hawkes, but classic fits were all I could see. The design and fabrics were beautiful but the cut was terrible, for my figure at least.

Observe this gentlemen in the terrible trousers, not only is an undershirt showing, but he has enough fabric on that shirt to cater for half my shirt wardrobe! As you can see, it's a casual oxford fabric but the cut is still not contoured to his body, regardless of the situation. His sleeves are too long and the ballooning at the bottom comes from incorrect tucking of his shirt, but also the tight belt constricting his waist.

It doesn't matter if the shirt is as well made as something from Turnbull & Asser or as mass produced and cheap as something from Marks & Spencer, if it doesn't fit it will not look good. Now, you may be rushing to your wardrobe panicking about your shirts, but you do not have to throw them out; there are remedies to ill fits.

Firstly, any stylish gentleman should have an alterations tailor for his garments if they're large off the rack, if you have one utilise them. They can take your shirts, collars and cuffs in to a certain extent but that should be enough unless you are wearing something 3 sizes too large.

Secondly, if your shirts are made-to-measure or bespoke, like Kiton or Turnbull & Asser, you can have them re measured which is like altering. Fabric can always be put back into the garment reserve and remade so do not fret over you £160 cocktail cuff poplin, they can be fixed.

Personally, I prefer the final remedy which is simple; try the smaller size first that contours to your figure. This means if you are a 38 chest, try the 36 and if you wear classic fits, wear the slim or tailored fit. This more often than not prevents bad fits for me and some friends who I take shopping.

Remember though, slim fits and classic fits are all based of an ideal body type in that context, so they will not always fit you like bespoke or made-to-measure. If you have the time and money to utilise a shirtmaker then go ahead but remember that sometimes they can even fit poorly if not made well.

Shirts are the life of your outfit, they may be framed by suits but they are a base colour and determine your extras that all accumulate to one spectacular ensemble, take your time looking for shirts and always..... ALWAYS do it in the boutique, never online.

Stay stylish- stay happy,

- Kieran